AMI Alexandre Mattiussi RTW Spring 2021

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For spring, and a debut on the women’s calendar — a temporary spot, after sitting out last season — Alexandre Mattiussi sent a youthful, street savvy lineup along a cobblestoned quay of the Seine river. It was nighttime, and the models cast long shadows, exaggerating the silhouettes.

Veering away from the more androgynous side of the brand, the designer sexed things up considerably this season with relaxed and sensual updates of looks from the Seventies and Nineties. There were slick brown patent leather trousers for the men and miniskirt in the same material for women — plus bare midriffs for both sexes. It felt quite modern.

“More contemporary, yes, and I also brought in something I did in the very beginning with Ami, with a bit of sexiness and stronger boys,” said Mattiussi, speaking after the show. A crowd had gathered around him, umbrellas colliding.

AMI RTW Spring 2021

53 Photos 

“The woman brings a lot, I find she creates a link between the men’s line and our history, completing our offer — it pushes me to look at the man differently,” he explained.

He paired wide skater-style shorts with statement overcoats in a teal corduroy fabric. In a dressier rendition, the shorts worn by women assumed a business-like allure, with suit coats. Toying with jacket lengths, Mattiussi offered elongated suit coats and short, taut leather jackets. Trousers came as loose high waters, or long, with low waists and slightly flared at the bottom.

“They’re cool, a bit sophisticated this evening because it’s nighttime in the City of Light,” Mattiussi said. The designer has been carefully building up the label’s repertoire and its Parisian character, and this collection came as a tasteful addition.

It has been a difficult season for fashion labels to navigate, and those forging ahead with physical shows have served as something of a test case — including Ami. The young, independent label has leveraged the format successfully, notably raising its profile in Asia with one in Shanghai last year. This time, the show — viewed from a boat, due to tightening social distancing requirements from local authorities — was also projected in Times Square.

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